Researching Hangboarding – Pt 1

So far in my climbing progression, I’ve avoided structured training as I’ve always been a firm believer that the best type of training for any given activity revolves around doing that activity consistently over time. I’m not arguing that hangboarding and campus boarding don’t get you strong, but I knew that for someone with such little climbing experience as myself (barely 2 years), I had a lot more technique and movement that I could practice on the wall before I needed to delve into specific strength training. I definitely still feel this way and feel that there’s a lot more progress and general climbing experience I can gain through just climbing, but started researching hangboarding recently to see what professionals/experts have to say about finger training. This Dave MacLeod video was touted as the only video one needs to watch on hangboarding, so I started with that.

Some takeaways from the Dave MacLeod hangboarding training:
Most important takeaway – LISTEN TO YOUR BODY
Much more important to listen to how your body is feeling on a specific day, and to adjust accordingly.
Maintaining a regular schedule and consistency are key over the long term, not worth getting inured while training

• Warmup: Do some pullups (5 – 10), and some hangs on easy wrung
• Do hangboarding training with maximum hang/strength output/effort involved
  • Recommends doing hangs where you can only hang for 7-10 seconds
• 3 main grip types
  • 4 finger open hang
    • Index and pinky are hanging but middle and ring are bent
  • Half crimp
  • Full open hand (3 finger drag)
    • Pinky dropped, other fingers are fully open at middle joint
  • Additional exercises:
    • 2 finger pockets
    • Pullups/front levers, etc.
• Structure workout around the 3 main grip types
• Recommends 3 – 5 sets of maximum strength 1 rep hang
  • Don’t do a maximal strength exercise if you can’t deliver close to your max; rest up for the next session
• Choose right intensity for your hang
  • Be creative when adjusting
    • Can add weight for two hand hangs
    • If trying to transition to one hand hang, add some counter weight for other hand to grab and take some weight off
• For rest, take as long as it takes to reproduce the same effort
  • 45 – 90 sec recommendation
• Structuring when to do max hang workout:
  • Often they only take around 30 min, so Dave fits them after a medium boulder/sport session
• Form/Avoiding injury
  • Don’t swing or jump when getting into hang position
  • Make sure to chalk – never let a finger pop/slip as it shocks the rest of the fingers

Overall, I liked Dave’s general message and more loose, flexible approach to hangboarding. His attitude about listening to your body and being flexible but consistent in your workouts is a “big idea” that I strongly believe in. It’s also interesting that Dave prefers max hangs to other types of hangboarding such as repeaters. Next up, I’ll be doing some research on the other types of hangboarding (which are listed below in a reddit link).